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Very intense 1302 semi-auto restoration - Page 2 - Angel VW Club

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland
Right, done quite a few things.
Firstly that bonnet:


To cut down distortion this repair panel was braised in place:



LOTS of repair panels are needed and as you've probably guessed by now I hate the cheap crappy repair panels available so a scriber, a ruler, some sheet metal and a lot of metal forming tools:


Using a pair of A-posts cut from a scrap Beetle as a template:


Rear quarter panel repair sections - these were made from a cardboard template:


Heater channels!
This was my first attempt at making the tapered section at the front:


Quick attempt at making the front section to the A-post:



The trouble I'm having is the only thing I've got to work from is a really crap Klokkerholm heater channel and the measurements are all over the place :x
I'm seriously thinking about redesigning the whole heater channel to my own specs. The whole bottom 6 inches of the car is going to be rebuilt by myself anyway so as long as it looks stock, runs along edge of the floorpan correctly, is neat and is symmetrical with the other side and everything fits ok like the doors, running boards etc then I can only see this as a good thing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland
Some more rust damage to the car, the rain guttering:




I was originally going to use the metal cut from a scrap Beetle. However, having dismantled various sections of scrap rain guttering I've discovered it's basically a folded lap joint which is pretty easy to replicate with a few basic metalwork tools. I'd much rather use new metal anyway.

It's pretty much one of these joints:

Only difference in the VW rain gutter is the shaded joining piece of metal is bent over once more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland
The floorpans I originally thought were savable but they've turned out to be very bad. There was some hard coating over the floorpans which masked the problems but unfortunatly this coating did a very good job at keeping the rust supplied with water and I only spotted there was problems when this coating broke revealing a rust hole underneath:

Also, note the wire bodge going to the gearstick - looks like the previous owner had a few problems with the "lock out" circuit that prevents the car being started in gear. There's also a switch under the dash which goes right to the starter solenoid. The car will be getting one of my rewires anyway! ;)
Think I'm going to have a go at making my own floorpans too.

Some chassis rot:

With the help of Adam and Grant the body will be split from the chassis in the next couple of weeks so I'll see the full extent of the damage. I'm not too concerned though given the sorts of welding I'm used to these days!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland
Right, bit more in-depth info about these heater channels;
This was a fabrication exercise I did last week with a small offcut of metal to try and get more of idea as to how to construct the heater channels. This was literally bashed out with a hammer and bent along an iron bar in about 10 minutes so please ignore the inaccuracies and the dodgy bends!



This did serve a good purpose though as I did find out that it's going to be difficult to form the main profile of the heater channel in one piece, especially as the width of the heater channel restricts the amount of bending I can introduce.

So, looking at the side profile:


I've decided to make the main section of heater channel in two parts:

The red section highlights the main part of the heater channel, the blue section represents the door channel bit that fits underneath the door. I'd imagine this is going to be a bit stronger than a stock heater channel too as there's effectively two box sections as opposed to just the one on a stock set-up.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland
Heater channel construction:



This is the curved area of the main section being formed and the crappy Klokkerholm heater channel for comparison:



Forming the section that fits under the door - this is what I'm up against here - a very old and abused metal folder!



The side profile - this is how I wanted to make it originally:

Unfortunatly due to the metal folder not able to accomodate the folds I wanted to make in the section under the door I've had to make some changes and the flange (tee hee! :D flange!) now tucks under rather than being spot welded against the door jamb:



Bit more detail to show how the heater channel is mainly constructed from two parts:

Just needs a bit of trimming so the door jamb part and the main section flanges (tee hee! :D flange!) are the same size.


An overview of the completed section compared to the Krapperholm heater channel:



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:38 pm
Posts: 62
Location: Darlington
8) like it they should put a bit more strength in it 8) nice folder :D

_________________
northernclassicsandcampers.co.uk/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 4:33 pm
Posts: 2052
Location: Blyth, Northumberland


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